Geneva Watch Days 2025 has once again proven why it’s one of the most anticipated events in the luxury watch calendar. This year, a mix of groundbreaking innovation, bold design, and refined craftsmanship set the stage for some truly standout releases. From TAG Heuer’s revolutionary TH-Carbonspring movements to Ulysse Nardin’s avant-garde creations, here’s a closer look at the watches making waves.
Images: Geneva Watch Days 2025
The Tag Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph Carbonspring is a bold evolution of an icon. Honouring the invention of the balance spring in 1675, this timepiece integrates the TH-Carbonspring oscillator within the COSC-certified Calibre TH20-60. Ultra-light, anti-magnetic, and shock-resistant, the oscillator ensures precise and consistent performance. The flyback chronograph complication allows for fast, accurate timing, blending performance with heritage.
The forged carbon dial features a spiral motif inspired by the carbon hairspring, while deep black subdials with black-gold chapter rings add depth. Black gold-plated hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® ensure legibility. The full carbon construction — including the 39 mm square case, pushers, and crown — emphasizes lightweight performance while staying true to Monaco’s iconic aesthetic.
The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring is engineered for extreme performance, combining high-tech materials with TAG Heuer’s latest regulating innovation. Powered by the COSC-certified Calibre TH20-61, the in-house TH-Carbonspring oscillator delivers exceptional stability, accuracy, and resilience under demanding conditions.
The forged carbon dial features a spiral-engraved motif, complemented by a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Minimalist subdials, facetted black-gold hands with white Super-LumiNova®, and white lacquered accents enhance readability. The 44 mm forged carbon case, carbon tachymeter bezel, and matching pushers and crown create a stealthy, high-performance design optimized for lightweight durability.
Among contemporary watches, few are as unapologetically bold as the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium. Standing out amidst conventional designs, it fuses avant-garde styling with meticulous craftsmanship.
The dial is crafted from Crystalium, a material derived from ruthenium - a platinum-group metal ten times rarer than platinum. Through a delicate vapor deposition process, the ruthenium crystallizes, creating a luminous, textured surface that shines like freshly unearthed gold ore. Paired with a black DLC-coated titanium case, and matching hands and indices, the dial commands attention without visual conflict.
Powering the watch is Ulysse Nardin’s in-house UN-230 movement, with a 3 Hz beat rate and 72-hour power reserve within a 43 mm case that provides 50 meters of water resistance. Strap options include a ballistic-pattern rubber strap with rose-gold stitching, alligator leather with matching stitching, and a black ceramic strap - offering versatility for any wrist.
Zenith chronographs have long enjoyed a stellar reputation, thanks in no small part to the legendary El Primero movement - one of the first automatic chronographs in the world, famed for its ability to measure time to 1/10th of a second.
At Geneva Watch Days 2025, the brand introduced a vibrant new collaboration with modular furniture specialists USM, drawing inspiration from the shared design heritage of the 1960s. The result is the Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, a 37 mm angular case chronograph available in four bold dial colors: orange, green, yellow, and blue.
Each model is limited to just 60 pieces and priced around £10,000, making this quirky, retro-inspired chrono a highly collectible addition to Zenith’s lineup.
Bvlgari’s Bronzo adds a fresh twist to the Aluminium line with its first-ever bronze case, developing a unique, evolving patina over time. Combining aluminium, rubber, and bronze, the watch balances classic style with contemporary flair, transforming timekeeping into a dynamic, living work of art. With vintage-inspired character and modern edge, it’s a bold statement for the wrist.
For Geneva Watch Days 2025, Gerald Charles has brought back one of Gérald Genta’s last-ever designs, the Masterlink Gem-Set. The watch has a curious backstory: it was said to have been commissioned by a royal family in Sarawak, Malaysia, who wanted something unlike anything else on the market. Genta answered with an asymmetrical case paired to an equally unusual bracelet - flat links on the 12 o’clock side, curved links on the 6 o’clock side - creating a visual rhythm that’s instantly recognizable. The original was completely covered in diamonds and rubies, a true statement piece. This year, the Masterlink returns with a lighter touch: still jewel-encrusted, but in more focused executions with accents of blue sapphire, ruby, or tsavorite that give the watch a punch of colour without overwhelming its quirky architecture.
Geneva Watch Days 2025 once again demonstrated that innovation, artistry, and heritage can coexist beautifully. From TAG Heuer’s cutting-edge TH-Carbonspring releases to the avant-garde Freak X Crystalium, Zenith's bold new colourways, to Bvlgari’s material-forward Bronzo, this year’s lineup proves that the world of watchmaking continues to evolve - while remaining deeply rooted in craftsmanship.
Even if you couldn’t make it to Geneva, you can still explore an exceptional range of luxury timepieces in our carefully curated collection of pre-owned watches online. For those who prefer a more personal experience, we’d be delighted to welcome you to our showroom. And if the watch you’re after isn’t listed, our team specialises in sourcing rare and hard-to-find models on your behalf.
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