When a watch brand turns 150, expectations run high. Collectors look for meaningful innovation and respect for tradition. Audemars Piguet has delivered all three with its latest release of new watches: a trio of perpetual calendar watches downsized to 38mm, the first time this prestigious complication has ever appeared in such a compact case for both the AP Royal Oak and the Code 11.59.
For seasoned enthusiasts, this is big news. Until now, AP’s perpetual calendars have been housed exclusively in 41mm cases. While that size has plenty of fans, it also excluded a significant portion of collectors who prefer or require something smaller. The move to 38mm isn’t just about comfort - it’s about broadening the reach of one of the most poetic and technically demanding complications in watchmaking.
The perpetual calendar is one of haute horlogerie’s great feats. Unlike a standard calendar watch, which requires monthly correction, a perpetual calendar automatically accounts for the quirks of the Gregorian system: 30- and 31-day months, leap years, and February’s irregular count. In fact, properly set and maintained, it won’t need correction until the year 2100 - the one quirk in the calendar that even this complication can’t reconcile.
Fitting all this into a 38mm case is no small task. AP has pulled it off with the help of two movements: the brand-new caliber 7136 and the recently introduced caliber 7138. Both are just 4.1mm thick and protected by five patents, underscoring AP’s relentless push for technical refinement. Despite their slim profiles, the calibers still manage a robust 55-hour power reserve, more than enough for weekend rotation wear.
One of the standout innovations here is the “all-in-the-crown” adjustment system. Traditional perpetual calendars often require tiny recessed correctors on the case flanks, which must be adjusted with a tool - fiddly at best, intimidating at worst. AP has stripped away that complication-within-the-complication. Now, every function - day, date, month, leap year, and even the moon phase - can be adjusted directly through the crown. It’s intuitive, practical, and shows how a high complication can be made genuinely wearable.
Audemars Piguet hasn’t stopped at just one watch in this new 38mm size—it’s introduced three distinct versions. Each has its own style and personality, giving collectors a real choice. One leans more towards a classic, traditional look, while another brings a modern, contemporary feel. The third strikes a balance, blending elements of both old and new.
This approach makes the anniversary release feel more inclusive. Collectors who have long admired AP’s perpetual calendars but found the larger 41mm cases too bold now have options. At the same time, those who enjoy a modern aesthetic aren’t left out. By offering these three interpretations, Audemars Piguet demonstrates that it can honor its rich history while evolving to meet the tastes and needs of today’s collectors.
It’s a thoughtful way to celebrate 150 years without compromising on style.
Image: Audemars Piguet / Hoodinkee
The Code 11.59 may be AP’s newest collection, but this model carries a sense of maturity.
Its pink-gold case combines curved lugs with alternating polished and brushed surfaces, demonstrating careful attention to detail. The deep green guilloché dial, crafted in collaboration with master artisan Yann Von Kaenel, adds subtle texture and depth.
The dial’s intricate patterns catch the light differently from various angles, while the perpetual calendar indications are clearly arranged, balancing functionality with refined design. This watch leans toward elegance rather than sportiness, making it equally suitable for formal occasions or everyday wear.
For those who prefer their AP with a shot of sportiness, the stainless steel Royal Oak version is a standout.
The octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and sharp finishing remain instantly recognisable, but here they’re paired with a light-blue Grande Tapisserie dial.
The choice of colour is fresh, contemporary, and undeniably eye-catching. The subdials blend seamlessly, creating a clean and modern aesthetic without losing the intricate detail that defines the Royal Oak. It’s a perpetual calendar that feels equally at home under a cuff or paired with a more casual fit.
Image: Audemars Piguet / Hoodinkee
The third model is also a Royal Oak, this time crafted in pink gold. It features a soft beige dial and a striking blue moon phase indicator at six o’clock, giving it a sense of warmth and refined elegance.
Where the steel version feels sporty and versatile, the pink-gold model highlights Audemars Piguet’s heritage of creating high complications in precious metals. It has a strong presence on the wrist, yet the downsized 38mm case keeps it approachable and comfortable. This watch manages to feel celebratory without being overbearing - it carries the weight of AP’s 150th anniversary with subtlety, making it suitable for both special occasions and daily wear.
With its careful design, quality materials, and practical size, the pink-gold Royal Oak offers a balance of tradition and wearability, appealing to collectors who want a technically impressive yet comfortable watch.
Image: Audemars Piguet / Hoodinkee
All three watches feature sapphire crystal casebacks, offering a clear view of the meticulously decorated movements inside.
Finishing includes Côtes de Genève, circular graining, polished bevels, and a 22-carat pink-gold rotor engraved with the Audemars Piguet signature.
For collectors who want something even more special, AP is producing limited anniversary editions of 150 pieces alongside the core launches. These feature vintage AP logos and special engravings - subtle touches that nod to the maison’s long history while marking these watches as future rarities.
Beyond the watches themselves, this release highlights Audemars Piguet’s approach to modern watchmaking. Reducing the perpetual calendar to 38mm demonstrates a focus on wearability and a responsiveness to collectors’ needs.
It also reflects AP’s broader approach of combining tradition with practical innovation. While the perpetual calendar remains a highly respected complication, the new calibers 7136 and 7138 make it easier to use and more intuitive than before.
As CEO Ilaria Resta noted:
“The passion for watchmaking should be shared with as many people as possible.”
By making this complex function more accessible in both size and operation, Audemars Piguet has put that philosophy into practice.
The Royal Oak and Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendars in 38mm are more than just anniversary editions. They’re proof that even at 150 years old, Audemars Piguet remains one of the most forward-thinking maisons in watchmaking.
Each model offers a distinct personality: the Code 11.59 with its artistic flair, the steel Royal Oak with its sporty freshness, and the pink-gold Royal Oak with its timeless opulence. Together, they form a collection that celebrates heritage while pointing towards the future.
For collectors, this trio is cause for celebration - and perhaps temptation. After all, it’s not every day a brand rewrites its own history by making one of its highest complications more approachable, elegant, and wearable than ever before.
Skip the long dealer waiting lists and own your Audemars Piguet immediately with BQ Watches. We offer next-day delivery, so your new timepiece can be on your wrist without delay, letting you enjoy the luxury and craftsmanship of your watch from the moment you choose it.
We can help you find your dream Audemars Piguet watch. If you don’t see it online, simply get in touch using the form below, and one of our specialist team members will be delighted to source it for you.
