It’s a question that’s been asked by collectors, newcomers, and casual observers alike: why does everyone seem to want a Rolex Submariner? What is it about this one watch - among the countless timepieces Rolex has produced - that captures such universal attention?
The answer, as it turns out, is layered. The Submariner isn’t just a dive watch. It’s the dive watch. And over the course of seven decades, it’s become something more: a design icon, a milestone marker, and, in many cases, a dream realised.
Launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner arrived at a time when deep-sea exploration was capturing the world’s imagination. Diving was still relatively new as a sport and as a science, and the idea of a wristwatch that could accompany a person hundreds of metres underwater was groundbreaking.
Rolex wasn’t the first to make a water-resistant watch, but it was the first to bring together a rotating bezel, luminescent markers, and a waterproof case into a package that would become the blueprint for virtually every dive watch that followed.
The original Submariner, ref. 6204, had a slim profile, pencil hands, and minimal text on the dial. Over time, the design would evolve, but never drastically - Rolex has always opted for gradual refinement over sudden reinvention. That commitment to design continuity is a big part of the Submariner’s appeal today.
Image: Collector Square
From a distance, you can recognise a Submariner. The black bezel. The Mercedes hour hand. The symmetry of the dial. It’s not flashy. It’s not trying too hard. But the proportions are just about perfect. There’s a clarity to the design - nothing feels unnecessary, yet everything serves a purpose. The design is practical, but refined - and, importantly, it hasn’t changed much in over 70 years. That consistency lends it a kind of quiet authority: timeless without being outdated, instantly recognisable without shouting for attention.
Whether you’re talking about the vintage gilt-dial 5512s with their warm patina and soft acrylic crystals, or the ceramic-bezel modern 124060 with its crisp finishing and laser-precise build quality, the Submariner walks a very delicate line. It’s utilitarian enough for the tool-watch crowd - built for real-world adventure, with lume that glows like a lighthouse - yet polished enough to slip under a cuff at a black-tie event without raising eyebrows. It feels equally at home on the wrist of a diver, a CEO, or a groomsman.
Very few watches can do both. And fewer still have done it this well, for this long. The Submariner hasn’t just survived generations of fashion and technology shifts - it’s defined them.
Let’s talk build quality.
Rolex doesn’t do things halfway. The Submariner has always been robust, but in recent years it’s become something of a technical marvel. The case is machined from 904L stainless steel (which Rolex calls Oystersteel), offering greater corrosion resistance and a brighter finish than traditional 316L. The bracelet and clasp feel solid in a way that’s hard to explain until you try one on. The Cerachrom bezel insert is virtually scratchproof. The movement - currently the caliber 3230 in the no-date, or 3235 in the date version - is accurate to within -2/+2 seconds per day and offers a 70-hour power reserve.
But these upgrades haven’t altered the soul of the watch. It's still a Submariner. It still feels purposeful. It still feels like something you could take into the ocean - or wear for the next 30 years.
Watches, like people, are shaped by the company they keep.
And the Submariner has kept very good company. It was the watch of James Bond in the early films, worn by Sean Connery in Dr. No and Goldfinger. That wasn’t product placement - it was reportedly the personal watch of producer Cubby Broccoli. Over the decades, the Submariner has shown up on the wrists of everyone from Steve McQueen to Che Guevara to Robert Redford.
But it’s not just about celebrity - it’s about visibility. The Submariner is everywhere. And because it’s so ubiquitous, the Submariner has become a kind of shorthand - not just for Rolex, but for the idea of luxury watches as a whole. When someone says, “I want a Rolex,” they often mean this watch. Even if they don’t know the model name, even if they’ve never been inside a boutique, the image in their mind is almost always the Submariner: black bezel, black dial, oyster bracelet.
Yes, there’s the value-retention aspect - and it’s hard to ignore. Submariners are notoriously difficult to secure at retail, often commanding premiums on the secondary market. But rather than discouraging buyers, this has only added to the allure. Vintage references - from the warm gilt-dial 5513s to the coveted “Red Sub” - have become grail pieces, with collectors scouring trusted dealers and grey market specialists to find the right one.
In fact, the grey market has played a vital role in keeping the Submariner within reach for many. While authorised dealers often have long waitlists, the secondary market offers access, variety, and an opportunity to explore models no longer in production. For many enthusiasts, it’s where the real hunt begins.
But ultimately, most people don’t buy a Submariner because it’s a better financial bet than an index fund. They buy it because it feels good. Because it feels right. Because this is one of those rare watches that manages to be both aspirational and approachable - a true icon that lives up to its legend, and then some.
Because it’s one of the few things in the world that lives up to the hype. Because it has history, style, utility, and presence — all in one package. Because it’s timeless. Because it tells the world, “I made it,” but also says, “I’ve got taste.” And maybe, just maybe, because when you put it on your wrist, it feels like it’s always been there.
At BQ Watches, we can help you find the perfect Rolex Submariner. If you don’t spot your ideal timepiece in our current inventory, don’t hesitate to reach out to our team. With our extensive sourcing services, we’re dedicated to helping you track down your dream watch.
At BQ Watches, we’re dedicated to helping you find the perfect pre-owned luxury Rolex Submariner watch. Our curated collection features all the leading brands, available to browse online at your convenience. Prefer a more personal experience? Visit our luxury showroom, where our knowledgeable team will be delighted to guide you in choosing the ideal timepiece.
