When it comes to luxury watches, the age-old debate between vintage and modern timepieces continues to spark conversations among watch collectors, enthusiasts, and even first-time buyers.
Some are drawn to the romantic allure, mechanical craftsmanship, and nostalgic charm of vintage watches, often appreciating the unique character and history behind each piece. Others prefer the precision engineering, innovative materials, and long-term reliability of modern watches, built with cutting-edge technology and contemporary design. But when it comes to value, performance, and personal style - which type of watch truly stands the test of time? In this blog, we’ll break down the differences in craftsmanship, aesthetics, and collectibility between vintage and modern watches to help you decide which is right for your collection.
Vintage Watches:
Vintage watches - generally considered those made before the 1990s - were created during a period when watchmaking relied heavily on handcraftsmanship. These timepieces were assembled and adjusted manually, often by a single watchmaker or a small team. Brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, and Jaeger-LeCoultre became famous for their painstakingly precise movements, many of which were produced in-house.
The charm of vintage watches often lies in their imperfections - slightly irregular lume plots, hand-finished bridges, or the subtle signs of ageing on the dial and case. These characteristics reflect a bygone era where human touch played a dominant role in production.
Modern Watches:
Today’s watches benefit from state-of-the-art manufacturing processes. CNC machines, laser engraving, and CAD design allow for microscopic precision and consistency across entire collections. Brands can now offer movements with silicon components that are resistant to magnetism and wear, along with extended power reserves and chronometer certifications.
While this level of technological advancement ensures accuracy and durability, some argue it removes the “soul” from watchmaking. However, many brands - especially independent ones - are reviving traditional techniques and blending them with modern innovation, offering the best of both worlds.
Vintage Style:
There’s a certain romanticism attached to vintage watches. Whether it’s the warm patina of a tritium dial, the slim profile of a hand-wound dress watch, or the idiosyncratic design choices of the 1960s and 70s, vintage pieces offer something unique.
Watches like the Omega Speedmaster Professional “Pre-Moon,” the Rolex Daytona 16520 with Zenith movement, or the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST exude character that modern iterations often try to replicate but rarely surpass. The appeal is not just about looks; it’s about wearing a piece of history.
Modern Style:
Contemporary watches often focus on versatility and presence. Today’s trends favour larger case sizes, bold colours, and materials like ceramic, titanium, and sapphire. Brands also experiment with new dial textures and finishes, appealing to a new generation of buyers.
That said, modern watches are also heavily inspired by their vintage ancestors. Tudor’s Black Bay range, for instance, is a masterclass in vintage-inspired design with modern execution. The same goes for reissues from Longines, TAG Heuer, and Zenith, which tap into archival designs while offering modern performance.
Vintage Collectibility:
One of the main draws of vintage watches is their scarcity. Many references were produced in limited numbers, making them rare and highly sought-after. The stories behind specific models - such as Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona or the “Ed White” Omega Speedmaster - add layers of intrigue and value.
Collectors are particularly drawn to watches with original parts, box and papers, and minimal polishing. As demand increases and supply remains fixed (or dwindles), prices for important vintage references have soared.
Modern Collectibility:
While modern watches are produced in greater quantities, that doesn’t mean they lack collectibility. Limited editions, boutique exclusives, and discontinued references can quickly become collector favourites. Watches like the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” 2024 or the Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Edition gained instant cult status and fetch premiums on the secondary market.
Furthermore, many collectors view modern watches as strong long-term investments. Acquiring sought-after models from prestigious brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe - even on the secondary market - can be a smart strategy, as these timepieces often retain or exceed their original retail value over time.
Vintage Considerations:
Owning a vintage watch requires commitment. Parts can be hard to source, and servicing must be done by specialists familiar with older calibres and construction methods. A careless service can devalue a vintage piece significantly - especially if original components like the dial, hands, or bezel insert are replaced without consideration. That said, for those who appreciate vintage charm, these extra efforts are often seen as part of the joy and responsibility of ownership. Regular maintenance by experienced watchmakers can keep even decades-old timepieces ticking beautifully.
Modern Reliability:
Modern watches shine when it comes to ease of maintenance and long-term reliability. With water resistance, shock protection, and anti-magnetic components now commonplace, today’s luxury timepieces are built to handle everyday life with minimal fuss. Many brands now offer extended warranties - some up to eight years -and servicing is often straightforward through authorised service centres or trusted independent specialists. For those looking for a "wear and forget" experience, modern watches offer peace of mind without sacrificing luxury.
At first, vintage and modern watches might seem quite different—but for many collectors, they complement each other well. Vintage watches offer a sense of history and individual character that’s hard to reproduce. On the other hand, modern watches provide reliable performance, advanced materials, and peace of mind for everyday use.
Whether you prefer a manually wound Patek Philippe Calatrava from the 1950s or a modern Rolex Submariner with a ceramic bezel, both have their own appeal. Ultimately, it comes down to what matters most to you: the charm and story of the past or the precision and innovation of the present.
Whether you're buying vintage or modern, the secondary market is one of the best places to find variety, value, and access to rare or discontinued models. At BQ Watches, we specialise in carefully sourced, authenticated timepieces that span every era of fine watchmaking. Our curated collection includes everything from iconic vintage classics to hard-to-find contemporary releases - each rigorously checked for quality, authenticity, and condition.
With expert advice, flexible part-exchange options, and servicing available from skilled professionals, the secondary market offers collectors and first-time buyers alike the opportunity to own exceptional watches with confidence.
So, vintage vs. modern - which is better? Vintage watches speak to those who love history, character, and uniqueness. Modern watches cater to those who appreciate precision, performance, and the latest in horological design. Both are valid, both are beautiful, and at BQ Watches, we’re here to help you discover the timepiece that speaks to you.
Whether you're adding to your collection or buying your first luxury watch, explore the world of vintage and modern watches with us. Your perfect watch might already be waiting timeless, tested, and ready for the next chapter.
If you don't see your dream timepiece in our inventory below, contact us via the form below and we would be delighted to help you either online or in person in our luxury showroom.
